It’s been a week since we arrived in Spain. It feels like months and minutes at the same time and we’ve settled into the pace nicely. It’s the start of the Spanish fiesta here in the north west and on our last night before leaving A Coruña there was a massive firework display set off right over the marina, it was the loudest one we’ve ever heard with each explosion reverberating through my chest and the whole boat shook!
Ben found salt water in the bilge whilst doing engine checks and we had a worrying few hours trying to work out where it had come from. In the end we decided it was probably when water forced its way up the galley plug hole, and ran down the backs of the cupboards when we were heeled over so far at the end of the Biscay crossing.
We left A Coruña on Monday and headed to Laxe, which was a boring 7 hour motor sail, but I did spot some dolphins far off. Laxe is a reasonable sized town with a big, white sandy beach and beautiful clear water, also with fiesta in full swing…fireworks were being let off day and night, the bars were all busy and a stage near the beach had been set up. The music started around 11pm and didn’t stop until 5:30am, we couldn’t sleep even with ear plugs in! We walked out to the point where the lighthouse is one day and had a pic nic on one of the stone tables over looking the rocks, many are far off the land and semi submerged so you can see why they call this stretch of coastline Costa da Morte (Coast of Death). We attempted fishing from the dingy (with no luck) so were forced to buy our dinner instead.
On Wednesday we had a 4 hour sail down to Camariñas and have had a lazy couple of days exploring. We tried fishing again with no luck but we did collect loads of mussels from the shoreline, and ate them cooked with white wine, fresh tomato and fennel…amazing free food!
The weather came in bad Thursday night with 35kts of wind from the south. Ben couldn’t sleep and was worried about us dragging anchor so sat up from 2am and saw two other boats go adrift. The occupants of the first awoke before running aground and moved up into the marina. The second were oblivious so Ben went out in the dingy and banged on the side of the hull to wake them up. The waves were pretty big and it was pouring down so I was glad when he made it back! Thankfully it was just in time, they were only a few metres away from the rocks by this point, and we watched them battle to bring their anchor back in and make their way back into deeper water. I’m so glad we use an app called Anchor Lite that we set on Bens phone when we drop anchor…if we drag it sets off an alarm and wakes us up. If we’re not on the boat we leave Bens phone on board and it sends my phone a text if the boat moves out of the swing radius we pre set.
This area and coastline is famous for seafood and in particular Goose Barnacles, which look like devils fingers! Ben is intent on finding some but it’s notoriously dangerous as they are usually found on wave beaten cliff edges, and why they can sell for silly money.
We’re off now to have a cerveza in town and maybe treat ourselves to some tapas, before moving south tomorrow and round Cape Finesterre